Instrument Pod

Ignition Switch Replacement

[ Though written for a 1988 928 S4, I believe this procedure is applicable to all model years because the ignition switch was one thing that stayed the same throughout production. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
-Editor ]


THE PROBLEM: The ignition switch on my S4 needed replacement due to a heavy key set and key fob used by the previous owner for ~20k miles. This resulted in the switch not returning to the "operating" position after the engine was started. It hung up between position "2" and "3" (owners manual, pg 28). In this position the engine runs but most of the electrical accessories did not operate (windows, blower, etc.). I could turn the switch slightly counter-clockwise to correct this, but that was unsatisfactory for the long term. The 928 ignition switch is a two-piece design. Only the "electrical" part if the switch needs to be replaced. This part cost about $35.00 at my dealer. Installation took a little over 1 hour excluding the time to modify a screwdriver (The KEY tool! - get or prepare one before you start). I have previously removed an S4 pod 3-4 times, so much of this is routine.

THE PROCEDURE: It is not necessary to completely remove the instrument pod from the car to accomplish this R/R on this model year, but it does need to be moved from its installed position. I have previously rremoved an S4 pod 3-4 times, so much of this is routine. Essentially ALL of the removal steps (procedures for this are on 928 OC and Greg Nichols Tips sites) must be taken EXCEPT for removing the 5 switches and their connections on the pod perimeter for the light, odo reset, rear demist etc. Once the steering wheel and turn signal switch have been removed, the left side allen screw is loosend, the right one removed, and the 3 wiring connections on the back of the instruments disconnected. You may also need to cut the 2 plastic ties that position some of the wiring harness on the right side of the steering column. The pod is then pulled toward the rear slightly to clear the ignition switch and moved up and to the left and "stored" there. The ignition switch is now clearly visible and somewhat accessible. Just pull off the electrical connecting plug from the back and you are ready to remove the switch.

This switch is held to the chassis by 2 screws (slot, not phillips head). There is a modest amount of room to access these screws from the rear of the switch to loosen and remove them. After about an hour of looking for the right screwdriver, I concluded that I did not have one, so I modified one to fit. I used a Craftsman screwdriver (part # 4151 and WF are on both of the two I have, there are also a couple of other numbers and letters on each). These have a blade about 1 ½ inch long and a grip about 2 inches long. The blade is ~8mm wide at the tip, then tapers to ~10 mm about 5/8" up the shank. This screwdriver will fit between the screws and the dash that is behind the pod, but the width of the blade and the taper prevent it from turning while in contact with the screw. I simply ground down the sides of the screwdriver until the tip was ~5mm wide and the maximum width of the shank was ~7mm. This screwdriver now just fit in the opening and could be turned to loosen the screws. Once loose, I removed them with fingers, pulled the switch out, put the new one in and replaced the screws.

The R/R is completed by just reversing paragraph 1 of this procedure.

Gary Knox
1988 928 S4