Drive Train

Torque Tube Replacement Tips

Replacing the TT is a big job, (at least it was for me), but if you have the time, space and tools it can be very rewarding. I have two large floor jacks and bought four, six-ton jackstands from Walmart. I also had a couple of small floor jacks. I used a pair of steel ramps that I had on hand, (the plastic ones weren't high enough), under the front wheels where access wasn't too important, mostly because it gave a little more of a sense of security. The jack pads were 24 inches off the floor, which gave enough room to work. I wouldn't attempt it without having the shop manuals though, because they contain many important details. I bolted a piece of 3/4" plywood to my floor jack for tranny lifting. Another lister who has done this job reported using a cargo strap to suspend the tranny from the stabilizer bar so he could crank the rear of the tranny up and down. up and down as needed. He also left the front pivot point of the trailing arms hooked up but I took mine completely off. While the tranny was out I had the torque converter bearings and seals, (kit from DR), and the axle seals replaced. Some of the bolts were hard to access. I took off the bar that goes across the top of the engine so the oil filler tube wouldn't run into it when you lowered the driveline to get at the top tube bolts.

I don't know how long rear crank seals are supposed to last but I replaced mine. The bolts holding the top of the flywheel housing were difficult to get at. You'll also need a flywheel stop, (I got mine from DR), and a special, splined fitting for the flywheel cap screws; (NAPA). I used one of the starter bolts with a large washer to hold the flywheel stop. I didn't use an impact wrench for anything and had no bolt failures. I will admit to a few skinned knuckles.


Don Burrows
Quiet 87 S4, A/T